At dawn, we are sailing up the Mekong River towards the village of Angkor Ban. Entering the village through its Buddhist pagoda, we are welcomed by the sound of wind chimes hanging from the high roof of the pagoda. Soon after, wandering between stunning pastel-coloured wooden houses on stilts, some of them more than a century old, we realise why Angkor Ban survived three decades of civil war.  Many of its houses were either occupied by Khmer Rouge cadres between 1975 and 1979 or used as warehouses. With our guides Rithy and Punloeu, we discover rural life in Cambodia under yet another facet, looking at cattle, vegetable gardens and farming traditions. Thanks to the nearby presence of the Mighty Mekong, local farmers can produce two full cycles of crops over a period of six months. One of the residents, Mrs. Korn, aged 81, welcomes us inside her house, showing us how the space is divided between the kitchen, the living room and the sleeping quarters. As we return to the ship, two Buddhist monks assisted by the elder of the village perform a blessing ceremony, which was followed by my presentation of archaeological mapping work using laser technology in Angkor.

Early in the afternoon, we reach the provincial town of Kampong Cham, capital of the eponym province. It gained its name from the many Cham, a Muslim ethnic group that settled in this province hundreds of years ago. The architecture and general layout of this wealthy town are both characteristic of the French colonial period, with tall yellow buildings and wide boulevards. But in the heart of the city, an Angkorian temple remains. Dating back to the 12th Century, under the reign of Jayavarman the Seventh, the Buddhist temple of Wat Nokor has been reconverted into a modern day pagoda. There, monks and Buddhist nuns are praying, surrounded by the sweet smell of incense. Our visit of Kampong Cham ends on the riverfront, where a bamboo bridge, dismantled and rebuilt every year, allows local dwellers to cross an arm of the Mekong to a charming resort on a nearby island.

At sunset, we celebrate the end of our journey aboard the Jahan with a farewell cocktail party and dinner with all the crew. Tomorrow will see us travelling from Kampong Cham to Siem Reap city, where Angkor, the jewel of one of the most amazing ancient civilization, is awaiting us…