Bernal Glacier and White Narrows, 3/14/2019, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Patagonia
Today we were greeted by the first sun rays illuminating the ice of Bernal Glacier. National Geographic Orion has sailed into the Montañas Fiord, in which this glacier is located. After breakfast we started our operations to land and hike to the glacier’s terminus, where we could get face to face with ice that is several thousand years in age. We all had a memorable experience by spending the morning in front of this glacier.
Later, we started our navigation toward our next destination of Puerto Natales. However, we first had to pass through the White Narrows, a channel which had to be navigated at the right time, with slack tide. We deployed a Zodiac with our navigation officer onboard to check the conditions and confirm the tide, for once it starts to change, the current can have speeds exceeding 10 knots.
Before we started to sail into the narrow channel, we had the best leadership possible when a pod of three Peale’s dolphins escorted our watercraft from the front all the way through. Not much is known about these dolphins, except that they live exclusively in the southern waters of the Chilean fiords and Tierra del Fuego Island. Riding ahead of our ship’s bow, this wonderful trio gave us a greeting into the Última Esperanza Sound, where our destination port was.
At dusk our ship was docked, sitting calmly next to town, with all its guests, staff, and crew ready for the adventure ahead.
After leaving South America behind and traveling for a day to the Falklands, we awoke off the islands feeling some uncertainty, much like the rest of the world. What would our future hold? We were all healthy onboard and in good spirits, so when the news came that we couldn’t disembark immediately, it was met with mixed reactions. It was determined that we would need to wait a few days (about five) until we reached a safe quarantine since our last contact with new people. At first, this seemed harsh. But in reality, it was probably better for everyone involved. We wanted to know we were all healthy, and we didn’t want to spread anything as we dispersed. And, being on board a healthy ship is a great thing. We not only had endless food, drink (wine!), and TOILET PAPER! We were onboard National Geographic Orion ! The crew were ready to spoil us like always, and the staff were ready to step up with a series of presentations and activities. For the first few days, we were cruising back and forth on the calm, leeward side of the islands. Albatross and other seabirds surrounded the ship continuously and Peale’s dolphins repeatedly came in to bow ride. We even encountered a pod of killer whales and spent quality time with these top predators. Our sister ship, National Geographic Explorer , also provided a fun interlude. After disembarking their guests, they were able to make a supply run to us for essentials. They passed off some fruits and vegetables, some technical engine equipment, and an entire Zodiac of TOILET PAPER! I’m not sure if it was necessary or a great joke, but something we all still talk about! Yes, we were isolating ourselves from the rest of the world, but not from each other. We could still do whatever we wanted, just onboard. Many became “Nolanites,” circling the upper deck getting exercise while enjoying some fine weather. Full gourmet dinners continued, cocktail hour was even more popular, and many guests formed their own groups doing various things they love. We then anchored for a few days in a sheltered bay and had many presentations to entertain ourselves and learn even more about the region. As our time passed, Lindblad Expeditions was constantly updating us and planning. We were ready, our time had come, and then the weather threw us a curveball. Heavy winds were coming, and the Falklands closed the airport for a day. The office scrambled again, rebooking not only charter flights, but flights for every guest and staff to their homes. And then, finally, it came together. A charter flight to Santiago, Chile, where we said goodbye to some of our fellow shipmates from South America. Then onto a Boeing 767 Dreamliner, chartered back to Miami. It was a shock to all of us, who were used to socializing in fun, close groups onboard, to reach the ghostly airport of Miami where no one was approaching anyone. From there, we dispersed and headed home. We left behind National Geographic Orion . The crew are still there. They will be there for awhile, navigating in this new uncertainty. My thoughts are with them. They showed us all much love and great hospitality. I know that myself and quite a few others certainly considered staying onboard. Destination…unknown? But, being National Geographic Orion , I am sure they are having fun right now and enjoying themselves very much.
Today we left South America behind and enjoyed following seas and wind on our way to the Falkland Islands. After spending the entirety of our voyage with land in sight, it was refreshing to wake with ocean surrounding our ship all directions with nothing but sky on the horizon. However, this is not to say there wasn’t anything to see! Wildlife was abundant today. Seabirds were our constant companions as well as bow-riding dolphins. This open ocean is the realm of seabirds. From the tiny storm-petrels to the massive albatross, these birds were taking advantage of the winds to effortlessly glide in search of food. Birds surface from all over the globe to enjoy the richness of this area, much the same as we have. Royal albatross from New Zealand, wandering albatross from South Georgia, and black-browed albatross from the Falklands. All concentrating on this stunning part of the globe.
What started off a foggy day with leaden seas, turning later into a stunning blue-sky morning as we Zodiac-cruised around the face of the Garabaldi Glacier. This tidewater glacier thundered and calved all morning, as we sipped hot-chocolate and dodged the bergy bits. We worked our way west along the Beagle Channel, making a brief foray into the wild open sea of the South Pacific this evening.
