Devon Island and Blanley Bay, 8/26/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
An early morning in the Arctic is an easy thing. The sun is almost always up, so one need only to open the blinds and get out on deck. This morning was particularly splendid. Dawn arrived late, rising over the walls of the fjord at Blanley Bay just as guests were disembarking for shore hikes and kayaks were being launched to explore the icebergs. The afternoon’s activities consisted of multiple polar bear encounters punctuated by bratwurst barbeque and beer on the back deck. We even had a bear stop by for an after-dinner viewing.
James is a home-grown, free-range Pacific Northwest outdoorsmen. Born in Seattle and reared nearby on Vashon Island, he grew up in and surrounded by the Salish Sea. James has saltwater in his veins, but would be quick to point out we all do, echoing ...
In the morning, we sailed through the peaceful and foggy Kangaamiut Fjord and anchored near the end of it. Several glaciers and steep mountains covered with moving clouds surrounded us. Some guests chose to take a Zodiac ride to the front of a spectacular valley glacier that abruptly plunges into the fjord. The air was reasonably warm and, from time to time, huge vertical chunks of glacier measuring 40 meters in height crashed into the ocean with a terrific sound. Each chunk that collapsed created a significant wave. Other guests preferred more active explorations such as long, medium, or short hikes over old glacial moraines and eskers where they enjoyed views of a powerful waterfall with cliffs and glaciers in the background. After lunch, we visited the small, picturesque fishing town of Kangaamiut where guests climbed a rounded mountain that commanded an excellent view encompassing the town, the ocean, dozens of islands, and the surrounding mountains.
Our day started earlier than usual, and we abruptly awoke to the sound of our expedition leader’s voice at 1 a.m. We were finally far enough south to have dark evening skies, and we were treated to a showing of the northern lights! It was brisk on the outer deck, but those who dared to leave their beds were pleasantly surprised by the green streaks splattered across the sky. After a few more hours of sleep, we began our day in the small Greenlandic village of Qeqertarsuaq, Disko Island. It was a bit windier today, but it was definitely not going to stop our adventure. Naturalist-led hikes of varying lengths took place and some highlights included seeing local dogs, spotting large grounded icebergs off the beach, and photographing the colorful array of houses. Visiting a museum showcasing the local history was a great way to help us better understand the culture of the areas we have been visiting. One of our National Geographic Photographers was on a mission in Greenland looking for a very specific tin can with a decorative polar bear. She asked store clerks about it in each town we visited, but today was her lucky day—we found store that had the tin! And not just one, but an entire case. It was an exciting and victorious find, and many guests purchased these beautiful local tins. Later, we laughed at the ridiculousness of the situation. As we left Qeqertarsuaq, we spotted fin whales. We were able to catch a few good glimpses of these animals and noticed that they had a yellowish tint to their normally white bottom jaw. We suspect they had some diatoms growing on them. We must have been sending good whale vibes out into the world today, because in the late afternoon we spotted fin whale and two sperm whales! The sperm whales surfaced very close to our vessel and even gave us a show of double flukes! It was a rare sighting, and a first for many guests and naturalists alike. As of today, we’ve seen six different whale species on our voyage—a true privilege.
All morning we steamed south with the mountains of West Greenland to our port side along with a steady stream of icebergs glinting in the light. We had two presentations for our morning at sea. Jennifer Kingsley, our National Geographic Explorer, shared stories from her time in the Russian Far East. Then Michael Jackson, naturalist and teacher, gave a clear and compelling explanation of the science of climate change. We then approached the community of Uummannaq, which sits on a small island almost entirely occupied by a beautiful mountain peak. The site of Qilakitsoq sits just across the way. It is in a small bay but covered by so much bright green vegetation that it stands out against the shoreline. This is the site where, in the 1970s, six women and two children were discovered in burial sites dating back 500 years. Because of the cold, dry wind that blew across their graves, the bodies were remarkably well preserved. They have since been termed the Greenland Mummies, and they are kept at the museum in Nuuk. The grave sites were accessible to us after a short, uphill hike, but the entire area is full of other burial spots and the remains of Thule houses which are now covered in thick vegetation. Our archaeologist, Lynda Gullason, spoke with many of us about the significance and structure of these houses. In addition to the interesting history here, this was a gorgeous site to explore. Layers of rock, lichen, moss, lush plants (comparatively!), and a couple of reflecting pools made this a peaceful and meditative place from which to reflect on our voyage. We only have a few days left together, and we will make the most of them.
