Elsehul and Ship Cruising, 10/31/2017, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
What a welcome to South Georgia- at last, the wildlife mecca, bustled before our eyes today. We explored Elsehul via Zodiacs as swarms of birds, pinnipeds, and even a bit of carnage could be found! Macaroni penguins were arriving at the rocky cliffs to nest and even a chinstrap penguin was spotted. Some of the naturalists noted seeing more light-mantled, grey-headed albatross in the air and nesting here in Elsehul than ever before. Indeed a fantastic sign of restoration to the seabird populations post rat eradication. The weather was so splendid that we were able to cruise, particularly closely, through the Willis Islands. The steep cliffs were teeming with yet more large birds, seemingly millions of small prions, and a humpback whale to boot! In the afternoon we all could hardly pull ourselves away from the bow after the expert navigation of our bridge team brought the ship nearly to the beaches of Salisbury Plain.
Caitlyn grew up entranced by the sea. She first became SCUBA certified while in high school in southern California and found her true passion diving and studying marine life. After graduating from Cal Poly State University: San Luis Obispo with a deg...
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A storm system redirected National Geographic Explorer to dock in Ushuaia one day earlier than anticipated at the beginning of the trip. Our last day together was spent touring the countryside of Ushuaia via buses organized by our wonderful team of agents based in the area. These agents provided a day full of breathtaking landscapes and an assortment of weather patterns. The buses served as a comfortable transport to two different lakes, Lake Escondido and Lake Fagnano. Lake Escondido is also known as Hidden Lake. It earned this name by often being covered in a thick layer of fog that conceals its location. We were lucky the winds were strong enough to provide us with a view at the photo stop alongside the road. At Lake Fagnano, our guests were invited to stroll along the marsh to look for birds. After our visits to the lakes, we were escorted to the top of Ushuaia, giving us a great view for our lunch before returning to the ship. A great day of forest views, snow, and peat bogs.
It takes almost two full days to transit from South Georgia to
the Falkland Islands archipelago. Onboard National Geographic Explorer ,
this time can be occupied in many different ways. For some it was a time to
catch up on the thousands of images captured while exploring the sub-Antarctic
Island of South Georgia. While at South Georgia, we were so occupied with our
daily activities that many had not even peeked at what their photos had
captured. Most people were quite happy with their results, and anxious to see
what other guests had accomplished photographically. A full slate of shipboard presentations were also available, for
people to enjoy and enhance their learning about the areas through which we’re traveling. Others spent time on the Bridge, checking on our progress across the Scotia Sea. Some ventured out on deck to the bow, or the aft sundeck, to watch or photograph the seabirds passing by. All in all, it was a delightful day at sea. We’re looking forward
to the Falkland Islands ahead.
South Georgia is now far behind us as we make our way across the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean towards our next destination, the Falklands. The sky is grey, the sea is grey, but memories of our days in South Georgia blaze with colour. Today is a day for reflection on all we have seen and learned, and for preparation for the days to come. Our first presentation of the day was a thought-provoking account from geologist Michael Jackson on the scientific basis behind climate change. We learned about the pioneering experiments of early scientists that led towards a modern understanding of how and why climate is changing, and the critical role of the Polar Regions. National Geographic Explorer ploughed on. Soon, changing air and water temperatures in addition to looming fog told us that we were crossing the Convergence (or the Antarctic Polar Front), passing from the cold waters of the Southern Ocean to the slightly warmer conditions of the Southern Atlantic. Next, naturalist Madalena Patacho gave a sparkling presentation about ‘The Ocean.’ She took us from the very creation of the earth itself and its first oceans, to the 11,000-metre depth of the Mariana Trench, around the world’s swirling warm and cold currents, to the final opening of the Southern Ocean. All of this creates a massive, unrestricted transport of water in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, which is so important for the concentration of wildlife that thrives in this region. National Geographic photographer Camille Seaman concluded with a surprising window into her passion for knitting, a skill originally dominated by men, from its origins in the Middle East to its spread throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. Knitting’s excellent qualities were much appreciated by the polar explorers of the Heroic Age and by sailors everywhere, as her images showed. The ship pressed onward throughout the day. At times, the ocean swell was quite impressive, but National Geographic Explorer handles it all comfortably. At evening recap, our screens in the lounge were bright with undersea specialist Brett Garner’s footage of gliding king penguins.
