The name Cape Horn brings forth images for sailors and seamen throughout the world. Located in the Furious Fifties, it stands alone to break the backs of the gray beards, or long ocean waves, that define the southern ocean. It marks the lonely southern tip of the South American continent and the northern limit of the Drake Passage. Our crossing of the Drake was relatively smooth. The Caledonian Star has stabilizers that make for a comfortable ride and while the seas burst in a flurry of foam and spindrift beneath her bows we crowded the decks for photos as we approached this legendary cape. Captain Skog anchored our ship in the lee of Isla de Hornos (Cape Horn Island) and our Zodiacs ferried us to the rocky shore.

Ninety-nine steep steps lead to the crest of the island where a boardwalk winds through windswept greenery. The family that lives here includes the world's southernmost dog, Roberto. They operate the small weather station and welcomed our arrival. Looking out to the south is a large relief sculpture of an albatross that is a memorial to sailors lost at sea. Throughout the day we'd experienced a full range of weather and as the last boats returned to the ship squalls approached from the west and hail and freezing rain raked the waves. While the 'Cape of Storms' meant hard sailing for ships long past it brought another rewarding day in our expedition at the bottom of the world.