Rio Pacaya
Since the start of this expedition we have been exploring the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria in the Peruvian Amazon. We have been primarily navigating two large rivers — the Maranon and Ucayali, while we have left the main river in skiffs to explore along small tributaries in search of good areas for wildlife. Today followed a similar pattern, with the destination being one of the two rivers for which this reserve is named — the Rio Pacaya.
This tributary of the Rio Ucayali is far longer than we have time to explore in a single day. It is worth taking a few lines to consider the formidable dimensions of this reserve. It covers an area of 20,800 square kilometres. Yes, that is correct, it is roughly the size of New Jersey. This is not a reserve with a fence around it, but an inhabited environment with an estimated 40,000 people living in and around it. The reserve is zoned with some human activities permissible in some areas and prohibited in others. It is this impressive commitment by the people of Peru to the protection of a wild and remote part of the world that we have been privileged to visit.
This morning began with a skiff ride with a difference. The catering crew of Delfin II applied their notable skills to providing us with breakfast afloat while we were in the skiffs along the riverbank, with an accompaniment of the sounds of birdsong and howler monkeys. It took us until the afternoon before we were able to find the red howler monkeys and obtain good looks, but when we found them, we found plenty. In addition, we were successful in finding three other species of monkey and the usual diversity of birds. Many of these birds have become familiar staples of the skiff trips, while each trip throws up something new. This morning we encountered the strange and apparently primitive birds known as hoatzins with their punk feathered heads.
The afternoon skiff ride covered the same body of water, but with a different cast of wildlife characters to enjoy, including the aforementioned howler monkeys. The ride ended at a large lake with a stop for a cold beer while some doubled their refreshment quota with a swimming stop, while pink river dolphins surfaced noisily nearby. Just another day in jungle paradise.
