Supai Caño and the Ucayali River
This morning the Delfin II pulled into the banks, and as we have done every day this week, a crew member jumped out onto the bank with line in hand to tie the ship to a strong tree growing on the bank. No anchors are used here in the Amazon, for the river bottom is pure mud and sand, nothing to catch onto for an anchor. Trees are much better, although one must chose carefully, because over time, the bank is eaten away by the river flow, and one day, all riverside trees will be carried away.
We were at the entrance to a little “cano,” or small river. An exciting narrow, swift-flowing entrance opened onto a gentle river that wound its way into the forest. Both briefly before breakfast for the insatiable birders, and after breakfast with everyone plus kayaks, we explored this little tributary of the Ucayali River.
Red and white spinetails, chachalacas declaring rain (so the locals say, but fortunately for us their weather-forecasting abilities leave a bit to be desired); toucans, tanagers, anis, parrots and parakeets…many species were out and about on this unusually cool morning. The most unusual sightings was totally unexpected and a first for our naturalists for the area—a two-toed sloth curled up in the fork of a tree!
I have to admit that I have become a fan of kayaking down these rivers…the silence and slow pace, almost no paddling, is the best way to travel! We passed locals in their dugouts, on a level with them for a change!
Back on board the Delfin II, we had some time to ourselves before a cooking demonstration took place on the top deck…a traditional dish, very popular in the Amazon region of Peru, are “Juanes.” Rice, chicken, olives, hard-boiled egg, spices, all wrapped in a special leaf from the area, steamed…and then eaten. Which we did, for lunch! This “package” is ideal for when one travels in the rain forest, easy to carry, easy to eat when in the middle of nowhere.
After lunch we got the cabin stewards to give us demonstration of towel origami they have been leaving us in the cabins…remarkable figures over the week from dogs to shirts to boots!
Our last excursion for the day took folks over to a lagoon, almost closed to the main river, and on its way to becoming one more ox-bow lake. The afternoon sky was clear, but not hot, so the herons and egrets in the marshy grasses stood out in all their finery as the sun set and the clouds reflected a fiery red in the west.
Tonight’s dinner was a very special affair and many of the crew were involved in having a pretty good time with us, music and all.
A memorable week with memorable fellow travellers, who I very much hope to travel with again on a future voyage.
