Aitutaki, Cook Islands

Today we neared the end of a 2,000 mile voyage of discovery that began in Fiji 10 days ago. This was our last day of exploration before we disembark the National Geographic Endeavour in Rarotonga tomorrow morning. And in Aitutaki we found the perfect spot in which to spend our last day.

By Zodiac we entered the atoll via a narrow cut in the reef. While this was less challenging and exciting than the entrance to Palmerston yesterday, it reminded us that this is no straightforward operation. Arriving onshore we were greeted with a ceremonial challenge (which we all passed) and were welcomed ashore by dancers. Once the welcome was over we proceeded to tour the island and the extensive lagoon; viewing the human and natural history of the island. During the lagoon tour we snorkeled over giant clams up to three feet across and onshore found nesting red-tailed tropicbirds. These beautiful tropical seabirds were wonderfully unafraid of us and gave us great views of punk chicks at varying stages of development.

In a diverse journey that has taken us to four countries via fire-walking Fijians, verdant rainforests and volcanic islands we have arrived in a land of white sand, palm fringed beaches and coral fringed lagoons peopled by friendly islanders. In the past two days in the Cook Islands we have found the South Pacific that many of us have been looking for.