Antarctic Sound to The Argentine Islands (The Brownies Were Good)
Yesterday we were at the east end of the Antarctic Sound, which is at the north end of the Antarctic Peninsula. It is a long way from there to the south end of Anvers Island (about 260 miles). We had been invited to visit the US scientific research facility called Palmer Station, which is tucked away in Arthur Harbour on the southwest corner of Anvers Island. Our wonderful ship the National Geographic Explorer made light work of the moderately strong swell as we cruised south through the night and on through the following morning. Heavy snow showers and a strong northerly wind developed during the night and continued through the morning, closing down the visibility of the amazing landscape of our surroundings. We were passing through the Gerlache Strait and the Neumayer Channel, occasionally the snow showers would relent offering glimpses of hanging glaciers and rocky headlands on either side of our passage.
By the time we reached the south end of Anvers Island the wind had picked up to thirty knots or more and made for quite a lively crossing of Biscoe Bay as we made our way west to the shelter of Arthur Harbour. Safely at anchor, protected from the wind by the surrounding headwall of a glacier we had lunch, and enjoyed a presentation by researchers from the station while we waited to see what the weather would do. The wind continued to increase up to over fifty knots and it became obvious that we would have an interesting time in the Zodiacs trying to make it across to the dock at Palmer Station. Fortunately after an hour or so things calmed down a little and we were able to go ahead with shuttling guests across to the dock.
We all seemed to enjoy the warmth and hospitality of the personnel involved with the station as they showed us around the facility and informed us of the research they are conducting. I was particularly interested in the submarine drones they are using to measure sea temperature and take all sorts of water samples from the ocean around the Antarctic Peninsula. These aeroplane-like, five-foot-long capsules fly under the water and are remotely operated from Palmer Station. In addition to all the scientific explanations on offer, the chocolate brownies and hot drinks were obviously a big hit with all our guests as was the opportunity for a little retail therapy in the station gift shop.
After dinner back on our ship we headed out to sea again, intent on trying to reach the Lemaire Channel and if possible make our way further south. Although the weather did not really cooperate everyone seemed to be thrilled with the narrow passage between the towering walls of this truly spectacular route. We were able to head on south down Penola Straight as far as the Argentine Islands. Most of the journey south of Lemaire was in ten-tenths pack ice. Our captain Leif Skog apparently seemed to be enjoying the challenge of negotiating the hazards presented by the ice. Judging by the excited, appreciative behaviour of many of our guests this adventure was certainly one of the highlights of our journey.
