Honeymoon Cove & Loreto

Wind was our master. It does what it wants, answers to no one and holds no regrets. We did have a bit of control by having it at our stern throughout the night. In the morning there was dynamic beauty in the seas. As far as the eye could see a parade of white-fringed mounds of deep blue followed one another. They accompanied us to our anchorage in the lee of Isla Danzante or “The Dancer”.

Honeymoon Cove is a spectacular place. It’s surrounded by ridges that look like they’ve been torn from paper. The Sierra de la Giganta mountains dominate all the scenery to the west. This volcanic backdrop follows a fault line that defines the eastern shore of the peninsula in this area. The dramatic scenery was a perfect introduction to a geology presentation on Baja California while the ship prepared for our snorkel outing.

The water was surprisingly clear as we peered below the surface. Giant damselfish guarded their gardens of algae as rainbow wrasses played their social games. Porcupine fish and a guineafowl puffer stared blankly. There were also stone scorpion fish. They look just like rocks and have enough toxins to kill a human. It’s a good thing that snorkelers float and swim rather than walk and grub around on the bottom.

After lunch we crossed from Isla Danzante to Puerto Escondido for a secure dock and a van ride to see the former capitol of all the Californias. Loreto is home to the first mission in the west, considered to be the mother of all missions. It was established in 1697 by Padre Juan Maria Salvatierra and six soldiers. For the next 132 years Loreto was the capital of California until a hurricane destroyed the town. The center of government was then moved to La Paz where it remains today.

We visited the beautiful mission, the museum and explored the town. Loreto is a very unassuming place. It beckons one to aimlessly meander its friendly streets, poke into its shops and end up somewhere sipping a margarita and watching pelicans dive into the waves. At least that was the way our day ended, having evaded our master.