Ensenada Grande & Los Islotes
Today it was as if the Gulf of California was pulling out all its festive stops, Baja style, in the form of phenomenal wildlife, weather, and adventures. First to appear on the morning’s horizon was a Bryde’s whale, huffing its breath into the air in the channel west of Isla Espiritu Santo. A baleen whale that is rarely seen for more than one quick surfacing, we were treated to a steady series of appearances in the soft morning light.
We spent the morning ashore exploring the dramatic rock arroyo and white sand beach of Ensenada Grande. The wildlife rustled up a showing, beginning with eared grebes herding fish in the shallows and continuing on to a hillside alive with sounds and scurrying. Endemic antelope ground squirrels hopped and trilled under the green vegetation while verdin, canyon wrens, and gnatcatchers sounded and flitted. Of course, rocks were not only clambered across, but also peered beneath, rewarding us with views of scorpions and snakes in the shadows. For some, the still day and bright beach were irresistible, demanding a morning plunge.
How could any of us go inside after such a morning? We took our lunch outside, bringing a barbeque onto the bridge deck. As we feasted, our afternoon destination grew closer—the small islets of Los Islotes. The clear air above the guano-frosted rocks teemed with turkey vultures, magnificent frigatebirds, and boobies. It almost seemed as if our arrival were being applauded by the Mobula rays leaping out of the water and clapping their triangular bodies against the surface.
Los Islotes, like so many spots in Baja, never disappoints. The rocks host an array of birds that use their mammal-safe slopes for roosting and breeding, and California sea lions lounge, grumble, and sun themselves on the lower outcroppings. We hopped into the water with the young pups, dancing as best as we could in the medium they fly through, then we took Zodiacs and cruised the edges, gaping at animals that call this area home.
How could we top off such a rich day? A piñata on the bridge deck after dinner, its purple star bobbing to the nudges of waves and naturalists, seemed an appropriate celebration. It’s with fierce joy and glittery tumbles of treats that Baja California Sur can be celebrated best.
Today it was as if the Gulf of California was pulling out all its festive stops, Baja style, in the form of phenomenal wildlife, weather, and adventures. First to appear on the morning’s horizon was a Bryde’s whale, huffing its breath into the air in the channel west of Isla Espiritu Santo. A baleen whale that is rarely seen for more than one quick surfacing, we were treated to a steady series of appearances in the soft morning light.
We spent the morning ashore exploring the dramatic rock arroyo and white sand beach of Ensenada Grande. The wildlife rustled up a showing, beginning with eared grebes herding fish in the shallows and continuing on to a hillside alive with sounds and scurrying. Endemic antelope ground squirrels hopped and trilled under the green vegetation while verdin, canyon wrens, and gnatcatchers sounded and flitted. Of course, rocks were not only clambered across, but also peered beneath, rewarding us with views of scorpions and snakes in the shadows. For some, the still day and bright beach were irresistible, demanding a morning plunge.
How could any of us go inside after such a morning? We took our lunch outside, bringing a barbeque onto the bridge deck. As we feasted, our afternoon destination grew closer—the small islets of Los Islotes. The clear air above the guano-frosted rocks teemed with turkey vultures, magnificent frigatebirds, and boobies. It almost seemed as if our arrival were being applauded by the Mobula rays leaping out of the water and clapping their triangular bodies against the surface.
Los Islotes, like so many spots in Baja, never disappoints. The rocks host an array of birds that use their mammal-safe slopes for roosting and breeding, and California sea lions lounge, grumble, and sun themselves on the lower outcroppings. We hopped into the water with the young pups, dancing as best as we could in the medium they fly through, then we took Zodiacs and cruised the edges, gaping at animals that call this area home.
How could we top off such a rich day? A piñata on the bridge deck after dinner, its purple star bobbing to the nudges of waves and naturalists, seemed an appropriate celebration. It’s with fierce joy and glittery tumbles of treats that Baja California Sur can be celebrated best.
