We began our day at Punta Dispensa on the coast of Isla Espiritu Santo. The dawn light was beautiful, illuminating a black cliff of ancient volcanic ash.

Many went snorkeling at the foot of this cliff as soon as breakfast was over. After a quick dip, most went ashore to explore. The beach here is a long white arc, and has some of the best beachcombing in the Gulf of California. Shells were colorful, with vivid purple, deep red and rich red, yellow and pink. We found sea turtle bones, mummified porcupinefish, and a delicate paper nautilus.

Some went walking through the desert. We met cardon cacti, the world’s largest. Galloping cactus sprawled in ungainly tangles. Chollas formed spiny “trees” of impressive size. And the whole area was laced with the tracks of the island’s unique black black-tailed jackrabbit. 

By afternoon we reached Isla San Francisco. This island has a tight cove that is great protection from wind and waves from the north. Many enjoyed the water of this cove by kayak or snorkeling. Others walked across the island’s narrow isthmus to tide pool in exposed shallows.

Meanwhile, National Geographic Sea Bird’s crew set up a barbecue on the beach. We enjoyed a grilled dinner from lawn chairs arranged around a mesquite fire. The temperature was perfect, and it was a delightful way to finish an enjoyable day.