Wind punctuated our expedition as we explored some of the beautiful and protected bahias (bays) carved into the jagged coastline of Isla Espirtu Santo—the Island of the Holy Ghost. This uninhabited pink jewel of the Gulf of California was slated for development in the 1990s but a determined coalition of environmental groups purchased the island and now it is designated a national park.
Strolling across the granite landscape dotted with boulders and the large stem succulents (cacti) characteristic of the Sonoran Desert was a photographer’s dream. Agave leaves spiraled around tall stalks capped with scalloped seed pods, the sun cast shadows of ribbed and spiked cactus edges, and the splendid diversity of texture, scent and subtle desert palette colors slowly revealed themselves. Over at the beach, snorkelers kicked their way through the cool blue water to observe hard and soft corals, interesting fishes and to test their waterproof cameras.
Afternoon brought the National Geographic Sea Bird around to the west side of the island into the magical honeycomb-weathered rock of Ensenada Grande. Etched deeply into the welded volcanic ash strata of Espirtu Santo, the bay offers sculptured red rock flecked with bits of green desert flora and turquoise water. By expedition landing craft and kayak, we explored the edges of the bay and photographed the birds, the skittering Sally Lightfoot crabs, rocks eroded into lacey shapes and each other. At sunset, the full moon rose above a high ridge, layering a bit of photographic frosting on top of a memorable day.
