Flat, calm turquoise water capped with cactus-studded red rock sculptures greeted us this morning at our quiet anchorage in Ensenada Grande. Once ashore on the white sand beach we indulged in kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, swimming, a long boulder-hopping walk up the arroyo or a meander in the lower valley. Listening to the sweet mournful sound of the canyon wren echoing off the steep volcanic rock walls, photographing desert plants and talking with our naturalists, we got a sense of the awesome geologic forces that created this island and the Baja Peninsula; and came to respect the plant life that has adapted to this arid place.
Los Islotes (The Islets) at the north end of this protected archipelago is home to the southernmost breeding colony of California sea lions in the gulf and it was our afternoon destination. Snorkeling with the young pups is a delightful experience and the rocky reefs below the water are home to thousands of interesting fish. King angels, yellow-tailed surgeonfish and blue and gold snappers are just a few of the colorful local residents. Our late afternoon boat tours gave us an opportunity to enjoy the sounds and antics as well as capture wonderful images of the sea lions on the rocks and in the water. We also had a chance to check out the blue-footed boobies, magnificent frigatebirds, brown pelicans and other seabirds that roost on this fantastic rock sculpture.