During a rare, perfectly still and windless morning, we landed at Jackson Bay, in Admiralty Sound to visit the most remote section of Karukinka Natural Park, a private protected area managed by the Wildlife Conservation Society. At 330 hectares, this area protects some of the southernmost forests, grasslands and peatlands of the planet together with a vast array of wildlife including several endemic bird species and a colony of breeding elephant seals. We hiked through large stands of primeval forest to get to a waterfall that drains the overflow of some alpine glaciers still blanketing the peaks that flank the valley we walked toward.