Last night we sailed out of Cambridge Gulf, leaving behind the sleepy little town of Wyndam, and this morning found us peacefully anchored in Koolama Bay into which the King George River flows. The cobalt blue sky provided a striking contrast against the towering sandstone cliffs we had been hearing all about. There was a strong sense of excitement. This was the first day out in the Zodiacs following yesterday’s off-ship excursions to the Ord River and flights over Purnululu.
Koolama Bay has a special history. Damaged during a World War II Japanese aerial attack, the Australian merchant vessel MV Koolama limped into these waters. After offloading passengers and crew to be rescued, the captain endeavoured to move the vessel to Wyndham where it was again attacked and finally sunk. Today, Koolama Bay harbored the National Geographic Orion whose only business was adventure!
An early group of explorers formed the vanguard up the 14-kilometer stretch of King George River, allowing time to climb the steep scree-slope for a view atop the Gardner plateau. Heading into the middle of the dry season and following a poor wet season, there is little flow in the river. This allows a good inspection of the river’s main flow, however, along with some breath-taking expansive views back down the gorge.
The main group followed soon after, leisurely enjoying the sights along the way and viewing the twin falls from the comfort of Zodiacs. Even before entering the river, we chanced upon a pair of dugongs feeding on shallow seagrass meadows. It was a rare treat to witness these shy marine mammals quietly going about their business. The cause for the diversion was a resident pair of pied oystercatchers tending a nest on the beach above the high tide mark. Around the corner and we came across a saltwater crocodile basking on a sandbank inside the river’s mouth. The croc was warming up following a night of hunting in the river’s cool waters.
Then the gorge of George – what a spectacle! Two billion year old cliff faces of layered Warton sandstone towering 80 meters high, exposing the edge of the immense Kimberley plateau, oxidated with oranges and mauves. The timelessness was tangible as we could see how erosion had carved the gorge over the eons.
After another incredible lunch aboard the National Geographic Orion from from Chef Lothar and his team, it was time for a beach and ridge walk on the bay adjacent. More amazing wildlife encounters awaited us, from feeding ospreys, a brown falcon, marine green turtles and an Australian humpback dolphin viewed from the ridge above. Those who remained on the ship caught a presentation on crocodiles from naturalist, Andrew.
The first Zodiac day was action-packed, and we realized over a laugh during the day’s recap session that there was much more in store on our Kimberley adventure.
