Langanes Peninsula, 7/14/2015, National Geographic Explorer

At 0600 hrs National Geographic Explorer is cruising in the far reaches of Northeast Iceland. The temperature is +6^oC and fog and low clouds hang over the sea to begin this long northern day. We are in Þistlefjörđur (thistle fjord), steaming toward the northwest coast of the Langanes—the “long peninsula” that stabs northeastward into the cold Greenland Sea. This is perhaps the most remote region of Iceland. Over the low swell and whitecaps of gray sea the ubiquitous northern fulmars wheel in soaring flight, skimming the waves. The desolate coast of Langanes is infamous for its history of shipwrecks, but we find a safe anchorage just outside Thόrshöfn, literally Thor’s Harbor, a small fishing village. It was once believed that Thor slammed his hammer into the coast here, giving the harbor just the right shape. We Zodiac into the harbor to a floating dock. No tourist destination, Thόrshöfn is all about fishing and a big fish processing plant is on the dock. Small fishing vessels come in with their cargo of cod and unload their catch that is iced down and made ready to send to Reykjavík to the fish market. Some of us go off on walks of different lengths while others meander around the small town to visit a gift shop, the local grocery, and the essential Icelandic church, beautiful in its simplicity. In the town citizens greeted us warmly, surprised to find us in their small community. Long walkers proceed out onto the tundra and see many, birds such as the European golden plover, redwing, ringed plover, rock ptarmigan, great northern and red-necked divers, and meadow pipits. On the spongy tundra we stop often to investigate myriad small and beautiful flowers and plants that grow in this special environment. Meanwhile, in and near the harbor common eiders swim with their ducklings and fulmars await the offal from the fishing boats.

This was also our opportunity for sea kayaking and a flotilla of yellow kayaks paddled away from the ship, each on its own private voyage. Before taking up the kayak platform a call was made for the polar plunge and 28 hardy individuals jumped into the frigid water; none lingered in the cold sea any longer than necessary.

Our first afternoon presentation was by Turner Foundation guest speaker, Jason Box from the Geological Survey of Denmark and Greenland, speaking on Ice - Nature’s Thermometer and the thought provoking topic of climate change, melting ice, and sea level change. This was followed by a special teatime treat, delicious Scandinavian pancakes served with jam and whipped cream . . . mmm! Next our Global Perspective speaker, Tim Severin, presented The Brenden Voyage—Part Two, finishing his story of his thrilling adventures at sea.