At first light, National Geographic Sea Bird cruised steadily north through the peaceful Pacific towards the entrance to Magdalena Bay. Once inside, the decks began to buzz with excitement as we spotted the first gray whales of the voyage. The naturalists explained that the bushy-shaped spouts, blotchy color, and dorsal “knuckles” are characteristic of this species. The whales surfaced to replenish their oxygen supplies and then arched for deeper dives with flukes raised towards the bright blue sky.

The ship continued through the open bay and into a natural channel flanked by undulating dunes and low-growing mangrove trees. These specialized plants thrive in wet sites far too salty for most vegetation. They provide perching and nesting areas for many birds and act as sheltered nurseries for a tremendous array of marine life. High tide covered the mudflats, so sandpipers and other birds rested on shore to wait for more favorable conditions to forage. An osprey swooped down in front of the bow but failed in its attempt on a fish dinner. Now and then several bottlenose dolphins slid beneath the bow for a free ride from the pressure wave.

The waterway widened as we approached the village of Puerto Lopez Mateos and Boca de Soledad, our destination for the next two days. Pairs of gray whale mothers and their calves spouted and rolled beside the ship while their skin glinted in the sunlight. The officers and crew dropped the anchor in late afternoon and lowered the inflatables to whisk us ashore. The scent of the ocean and sound of the waves enveloped us as we stretched our legs on the sand. Most of the group climbed to a high dune where it was possible to leap off or roll down the steep face. Others opted for a stroll along the wet sand left by the receding tide. Frigates and cormorants squabbled within the mangroves in preparation for roosting. Before long it was time for us to return to our roost for the evening. Once back aboard, we enjoyed Recap, a movie night for young travelers, a tasty dinner, and a presentation to prepare us for tomorrow’s adventures in the midst of gray whales.