Another beautiful day in the sparkling Aegean began with a relaxed morning of sailing. The meltemi winds, normally active in July and August, have persisted well into September this year. While providing ample opportunity for sailing, these northerly winds can cause frequent itinerary adjustments, as the strong winds prevent the ship from entering certain ports. This morning, with the lower and upper topsails and topgallant sails set, we sailed in the direction of the island of Naxos.
Unlike most of the Cycladic islands, Naxos is rich in agricultural land, exporting its abundance of fruit and vegetables to other parts of Greece; the island is especially known for its potatoes. Although the Greek myths note that Ariadne was unceremoniously abandoned by Theseus on Naxos, she soon caught the attention of Dionysos, god of wine, who had been raised on the island. Fitting for the island of Dionysos, Naxos today is today known for a certain liquor called kitron. Distilled from citrus leaves, this liquor—which can be yellow, clear, or green, depending on its sweetness and alcohol content—has a delicate and curious flavor. After arriving on the island, we drove to the inland village of Chalke, where we toured a small kitron distillery as well as the local parish church, first built in the early Byzantine era and reconstructed in the 11th century.
Heading back to the main city, Chora, some of us braved high winds and sea spray to visit the portara, the colossal marble gateway that remains from an unfinished, 6th-century B.C. temple. This was followedby a guided walk through the picturesque, winding lanes of the old town, including the Venetian kastro that crowns the city’s highest point. Along the path, repurposed marble from the temple, striking bougainvillea, and a colorful variety of old doorways provided wonderful subjects for photography. Later in the evening, those who opted to remain in town for dinner, or who returned to Chora after dinner aboard the ship, were rewarded with a bustling town that truly comes alive at night.
