Today has been a day of enormous contrasts and indescribable beauty. It begins with the ship gently sailing into Andvord Bay and heading for our morning destination, a landing on the mainland of Antarctica. For many this will signify bagging all seven continents. The skies are grey and overcast and there is hardly a breath of wind. The waters are almost glassy and off into the distance the reflections off the water are almost sepia in tone, yet the ice remains different tones of light grey. There is a lot of ice about and no matter how small or large the pieces are, many display wondrous sculptured shapes that bring about all sorts of interpretations from those of us up on deck.
Our captain gently takes the ship unbelievably close to shore and after breakfast we head off for the landing, a lovely sandy beach with lots of rounded boulders and of course the welcome committee of gentoo penguins as well as two slumbering Weddell seals. Early on there is a huge thunderclap as ice comes tumbling into the bay from the face of the very active tidewater glacier that is found here. Within minutes the beach area is hit by a series of waves and swells that bring a halt to the landing operation. Soon enough things return to a calm and we are able to get ashore.
As we near the gentoo penguin colonies we are immediately struck by how small the chicks are here compared to the ones that we saw at Hannah Point yesterday. A few venture on to the overlook where it is possible to enjoy wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and the glaciers which come cascading down the steep slopes. The skies have cleared and there are occasional little windows as evidenced by splashes of sunlight that bring interesting contrasts to the magnificent landscapes.
There are also Zodiac cruises offered today and these are great opportunities to get out into the bay and get closer views of the ice and also search for marine mammals. The ice is spectacular and by this stage glowing in the brighter light and bringing forth a magnificent palette of blues, violets, turquoises and greens. An occasional seal is spotted.
Over lunch we head back out of the bay and into the Errera Channel. There are some very large icebergs along the way which the ship expertly negotiates as it heads for the afternoon destination of Danco Island. The weather is so lovely and sunny and the wind conditions so favorable that kayaking is offered as well as the opportunity to get ashore and take a good hike up to the highpoint of the island. For those not wanting any of these options there is the chance to go on another Zodiac cruise and they are rewarded with a sighting of humpback whales.
The lovely sunny weather is thoroughly enjoyed by everyone and as we return to the ship we are lost for words but the beaming smiles say it all.
During the evening we sail through the narrow Lemaire Channel and the decks are covered in red jackets to take in the magnificent scenery bathed in the subtle evening hues. The hotel department has prepared Swedish glögg (warmed mulled wine) which is served up on the bow of the ship accompanied with pepparkakor, Swedish ginger biscuits. It has been a wondrous day for which we are all thankful.
