Mountains of snowflakes adorned the expedition team as they dodged and weaved through ice and delivered us expertly to the landing ramp at Palmer Station. Once ashore we ditched our lifejackets and were welcomed by a guide from the base. We were shown around the facilities and heard details about the extensive oceanography program they undertake. It was fascinating to consider their livelihoods so far away from home and living in this wilderness. Not so far different from our own present reality really, but their time down here in the ice is measured in months not days. Towards the end of the tour we all shuffled into the gift shop and most of us took advantage of this opportunity to purchase anything from bowling shirts to badges. We were also welcomed into the base mess for a welcome hot drink and reprieve from the snowfall.

After cruising the Lemaire Channel and another sumptuous lunch on board, we got a message from our expedition leader, Lisa, on the PA system that our planned visit to Port Lockroy was not a certainty. There was loads of ice banked up in the bay and she was to report back after sending out a scout boat. We managed to get the postage ashore but the mass of ice against the shoreline meant a landing was not an option.

Thankfully this is a true expedition and there was barely enough time for another hot chocolate before we heard the alternative was to be a landing at Damoy Point or a Zodiac ride around Dorian Bay. Both options turned out to be stunning, we observed loads of Gentoo penguins, including some young chicks still with their juvenile down. On the water encounters included a minke whale and a leopard seal who actively engaged one lucky boatload of delighted guests.