Working on Tim’s standard time we cheerfully started another pre-sunrise visit at 4:00 a.m., this time to find a glorious clear-sky sunrise at one of the biggest king penguin colonies, with about 150,000 pairs! One could not help feel dwarfed by the immensity of the place, the cacophony of sounds, the sandy beach extending for miles with a backdrop of glaciers and imposing Himalayan-looking peaks, and the fantastic weather. There was so much to absorb that a few of us did not even come back to the National Geographic Orion for breakfast, instead staying on shore to the make the most of the fantastic conditions. The kings, taking 11 to 13 months to raise a chick, can start their nesting period pretty much at any time of the year, which gives the opportunity to observe all the growing stages in a single colony. From birds on eggs, recently born chicks, to the nearly emancipated ‘oakum boys’ (and girls!), we all enjoyed amazing views and had the chance to find a spot on our own to reflect on the amazing luck we have had so far.
The promise of another good lunch and some “siesta” time was the only way we could convince everyone (including staff!) to finally leave the beach and come back to the ship.
The afternoon showed us how quickly everything can change in South Georgia. Twice. Emerging from our cabins we found a cloudy and windy view as we approached land again for our afternoon visit to Hercules Bay. The strong winds that pounded the bay prevented us from Zodiac cruising and an alternative plan had to be put in place.
And what an alternative plan B was! Time once again worked its magic and fairly soon we sailed into a calm, sunny, and iceberg-dotted East Cumberland Bay to reach Nordenskjold glacier. This surprisingly active glacier front calved nonstop during the duration of our Zodiac cruise, a beautiful yet alarming sign. Hundreds of Antarctic terns were feeding on the front of the wall as we floated by. We were simply grateful to enjoy yet another day in this Antarctic oasis, champagne glass in our hands, courtesy of Sam, our Maître D.
