Torres del Paine National Park, Chilean Fjords, 10/18/2016, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Patagonia
‘Unbelievable’ was the word used for the weather that greeted our
early rising and breakfast. The sky over Puerto Natales was absolutely clear
and our expectations were being exceeded as we began what would be a memorable
all-day excursion to Torres del Paine National Park.
Created in 1959 the 227,000 hectares protects a piece of the
southern Andes and the windswept grass and shrub lands of the Patagonia Steppe.
Spectacular scenery was out in all of its glory. Photographers were delighted
and even those who were not taking photos would forever carry the beauty of the
day in their mind’s eye and memory.
Some of the group hiked for most of the morning on a trail that
went from one park entrance to another. All along the hike there were views of
the mountains, the glaciers and the snow dusting the rugged peaks. Guanacos
seemed to be in constant view and moving across the open landscape. It was a
dry winter and dry spring but in a few places the lake beds held water with a
variety of birds including Chilean flamingos.
Darwin’s rhea (also known as Lesser rhea), large flightless birds,
scampered across the steppe as we passed along the gravel road weaving its way
through the park.
After the long morning in the sun and scenery a hearty, typical
Patagonian lunch of BBQ lamb and a variety of salads and vegetables as well as
scrumptious desserts was devoured. Then we took the shorter road back to the
awaiting National Geographic Explorer.
We would remain at the dock for the evening before having to leave to continue
through the channels and islands of the Chilean Fjords.
Bud received an undergraduate degree in wildlife biology at Colorado State University. He then immediately went to Alaska where he worked and lived for 30 years. At the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Bud studied wildlife biology and received a mast...
Rodrigo Moterani was born in Brazil, where he still lives. After spending his teen years playing with camcorders and VCRs, Rodrigo ended up working in the field of television journalism and video production in his home country. He graduated with a de...
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After leaving South America behind and traveling for a day to the Falklands, we awoke off the islands feeling some uncertainty, much like the rest of the world. What would our future hold? We were all healthy onboard and in good spirits, so when the news came that we couldn’t disembark immediately, it was met with mixed reactions. It was determined that we would need to wait a few days (about five) until we reached a safe quarantine since our last contact with new people. At first, this seemed harsh. But in reality, it was probably better for everyone involved. We wanted to know we were all healthy, and we didn’t want to spread anything as we dispersed. And, being on board a healthy ship is a great thing. We not only had endless food, drink (wine!), and TOILET PAPER! We were onboard National Geographic Orion ! The crew were ready to spoil us like always, and the staff were ready to step up with a series of presentations and activities. For the first few days, we were cruising back and forth on the calm, leeward side of the islands. Albatross and other seabirds surrounded the ship continuously and Peale’s dolphins repeatedly came in to bow ride. We even encountered a pod of killer whales and spent quality time with these top predators. Our sister ship, National Geographic Explorer , also provided a fun interlude. After disembarking their guests, they were able to make a supply run to us for essentials. They passed off some fruits and vegetables, some technical engine equipment, and an entire Zodiac of TOILET PAPER! I’m not sure if it was necessary or a great joke, but something we all still talk about! Yes, we were isolating ourselves from the rest of the world, but not from each other. We could still do whatever we wanted, just onboard. Many became “Nolanites,” circling the upper deck getting exercise while enjoying some fine weather. Full gourmet dinners continued, cocktail hour was even more popular, and many guests formed their own groups doing various things they love. We then anchored for a few days in a sheltered bay and had many presentations to entertain ourselves and learn even more about the region. As our time passed, Lindblad Expeditions was constantly updating us and planning. We were ready, our time had come, and then the weather threw us a curveball. Heavy winds were coming, and the Falklands closed the airport for a day. The office scrambled again, rebooking not only charter flights, but flights for every guest and staff to their homes. And then, finally, it came together. A charter flight to Santiago, Chile, where we said goodbye to some of our fellow shipmates from South America. Then onto a Boeing 767 Dreamliner, chartered back to Miami. It was a shock to all of us, who were used to socializing in fun, close groups onboard, to reach the ghostly airport of Miami where no one was approaching anyone. From there, we dispersed and headed home. We left behind National Geographic Orion . The crew are still there. They will be there for awhile, navigating in this new uncertainty. My thoughts are with them. They showed us all much love and great hospitality. I know that myself and quite a few others certainly considered staying onboard. Destination…unknown? But, being National Geographic Orion , I am sure they are having fun right now and enjoying themselves very much.
Today we left South America behind and enjoyed following seas and wind on our way to the Falkland Islands. After spending the entirety of our voyage with land in sight, it was refreshing to wake with ocean surrounding our ship all directions with nothing but sky on the horizon. However, this is not to say there wasn’t anything to see! Wildlife was abundant today. Seabirds were our constant companions as well as bow-riding dolphins. This open ocean is the realm of seabirds. From the tiny storm-petrels to the massive albatross, these birds were taking advantage of the winds to effortlessly glide in search of food. Birds surface from all over the globe to enjoy the richness of this area, much the same as we have. Royal albatross from New Zealand, wandering albatross from South Georgia, and black-browed albatross from the Falklands. All concentrating on this stunning part of the globe.
What started off a foggy day with leaden seas, turning later into a stunning blue-sky morning as we Zodiac-cruised around the face of the Garabaldi Glacier. This tidewater glacier thundered and calved all morning, as we sipped hot-chocolate and dodged the bergy bits. We worked our way west along the Beagle Channel, making a brief foray into the wild open sea of the South Pacific this evening.