Endicott Arm, Tracy Arm – Ford’s Terror Wilderness Area

In total contradiction to what we were all expecting this morning, the day dawned with a clearing sky which later broke out into sunshine, glittering off the face of Dawes Glacier. We arrived within view of the glacier face just as the wake-up call roused those still left inside. Mountain goats were specks way up high on the glistening cliffs of the fjord; light caught flat, damp surfaces and shone mirror-bright; blue sky was photographed as a beauty unto itself. After a month of drizzle and clouds, spirits all over the ship rose this morning. Ice fell in dribbles and drabs off the face, but suddenly a huge tower calved off, the waves gently passed underneath the ship a few minutes later. Harbor seals floated by on ice floes carried down-arm by the receding tide, surrounded by the sound of “ice crispies” popping and crackling all around.

As we sailed “down-arm”, delectation of the outside for views and wildlife continued. Low tide had attracted a black bear who was in the process of foraging on barnacles when we spotted him. This paused our Wilderness Ranger, Kevin, and temporarily interrupted his explanation of the park service's work in this most incredible wilderness area. A humpback whale made its presence known also, sliding quietly under the surface and disappearing after only a few tantalizing breathes of air, and soon our rangers were dropped off in Holkham Bay to paddle away in their kayaks and their next assignment.

The afternoon continued in excellent fashion with sunshine through partial clouds, cool yet perfectly warm enough. William’s Cove provided us with our first opportunity to kayak along shoreline and around ice, explore a temperate rainforest while wandering through the woods, and to bond with our rubber boots…probably our most essential piece of expedition equipment!